Mandolines: Music to the Cook’s Ear

Ken Haedrich test drives three models of mandolines and discusses the pros and cons of each.

Launch Gallery

by Ken HaedrichAugust 1997from issue # 10

Though I ’m a unfluctuating truster in the principles of small is beautiful and less is more , that ’s never stopped me from indulging in a rather elaborate phantasy about the kitchen I ’d like to have . Somehow within this kitchen of my dream has always been a putz called the mandoline , though I ’m at a personnel casualty to explain the accurate nature of my attraction to a gizmo that looks more like a guillotine on the bias than a melodic instrumental role . It has , I suppose , at least something to do with the matter ’s mellifluous moniker , its European descent , and hefty monetary value tag ( top - of - the - melodic phrase ones can go for close to $ 200 ) .

In shell you ’re wondering just what a mandoline does , well , it cuts ; it ’s a manual precision cutting instrument . Unlike a knife , where you move the leaf blade over your food , with a mandoline you direct the food over a stationary blade . It ’s actually quite a ingenious arrangement , and that ’s all I knew about mandolines until I had the opportunity to try aim three models . I require to see just how they do and to answer some questions I ’ve always had about them , such as : Does a mandoline make sense for the dwelling cook ? Or is it really more suitable to the professional kitchen ? Are they secure ? Easy to operate ? And , when all is said and done , are they really worth the dough ?

Lest you ideate that a mandoline is some sort of Redeemer for those mistrustful of knives , that ’s simply not the case . First , the mandoline , though versatile , could never replace your knife . The mandoline excels only within a narrow-minded job description , primarily slicing vegetable and sure fruit uniformly or decoratively . second , each of the mandolines I used has a sufficient number of exposed slicing edge so that somatic accidental injury is always a possibility , either when using the machine or just cleaning it .

The mandolines I tested admit the Boerner V - Slicer ( circularise bySwissmar Imports ) , the import Matfer mandoline ( distribute byMatfer Bourgeat ) , and another signification known as the Bron ( distributed bychefsdirect.com ) .

I was disposed to dismiss the German - made Boerner cinque - Slicer almost from the moment I laid middle upon it . This was not the machine one would carry from the country that give us the Mercedes , but a light - duty plastic unit .

If you ’ve ever quarrel your fingertip or knuckle duster on a grater , you ’ll appreciate why each of the mandolines come with some kind of condom bearer to secure the food you ’re cutting . The V - Slicer ’s looks like a 10 - gallon hat ; in the crown are several metal spikes on which the food for thought you are slicing is impaled . The byplay portion of the mandoline — the V - frame — is a orthogonal piece of charge card with a gaping , bladed V - mountain pass in the center . Using interchangeable cut-in , you’re able to make thin and chummy slices , wooden-headed waffle cut , julienned or diced veggie . The whole gizmo stores in what they call a multi - box and there ’s an optional catch - all bowl useable ; you place the mandoline directly over the bowl and slash horizontally , so the slicing fall right into the bowlful .

Without the optional bowl , you simply hold the cinque - frame on the diagonal with one helping hand , while grasping the safety holder with your other . To slice the solid food , you slide the safety gadget holder rapidly up and down the frame . At first , this musical arrangement felt rather awkward because there ’s no track to guide the safety holder ; it just floats over the surface like a Ouija on speed . In time , however , I got used to the feel of it . Both the Bron and Matfer mandolines take the issue of stability a good softwood more earnestly , as well they should , give their substantially greater toll . Instead of feature to hold them on a slant , both reside on their own fold stand .

They work on the same rationale all mandolines do — food travels over fixed blade — but there are several noteworthy design differences , most comforting of which is the Bron ’s “ chariot . ” The Bron has a rails tracking system of rules to help secure the food as you slice ; the chariot is the Bron ’s hinged holder in which your ingredients seat as the chariot rides up and down the rails . You just hold on the lid by the handgrip and slide ; your hand remains well out of scathe ’s direction . The one drawback is that you ca n’t use the waffle slicer with the chariot ; for that , you must hold the food right in your deal .

This chariot organization is so effective I ca n’t work out out why the design folk at Matfer have n’t adopted it . alternatively , they include a spiked atomic number 92 - wrought pusher that rides just outside the frame of the mandoline . For overall constancy and heartsease of psyche this ca n’t match the Bron ’s chariot , but again , the more I used the Matfer mandoline , the less cumbrous it palpate .

Once I got the hang of each mandoline , I found that all of them did a ripe chore with their depute job . I made coleslaw , scollop potatoes , and razor - thin slices of lemon , then slice up carrots and julienned zucchini . In each of these areas , the machines do more or less as . The V - Slicer can cut only thick or thin slice ; the other mandolines allow precision adjustments in the heaviness of your cut ( then again , the V - Slicer is substantially less expensive ) . mostly mouth , I liked the Bron ’s cutting design more than Matfer ’s . All of the Bron ’s blades and slicer are construct in good order into the frame , whereas Matfer ’s three cutting blades must be changed manually .

Before you grease one’s palms a mandoline , it make sense to ask yourself how often you ’re potential to apply a machine whose lone design is to make undifferentiated slice . If you ’re handy with a tongue and rarely prepare for a crowd , you could probably live without one . On the other hand , if you have a full-grown family , like to discombobulate parties , make tons of French youngster , potato chips , scollop murphy , or bombastic raft of sauerkraut , a mandoline might be a skillful time - saving investment .

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Mandolines offer precision cutting of vegetables and fruit. With food holders, fingers steer clear of blades. From the left: Boerner’s V-slicer, the Bron, and the Matfer.Photo/Illustration: Scott Phillips

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